Staying at Emerald Lake Lodge in Winter
Sitting just outside the small mountain town of Field within the scenic and remote Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Emerald Lake Lodge is the perfect stay for those looking for a luxurious backcountry getaway.
We’ve been lucky enough to stay at Emerald Lake Lodge the past two winters, and we recently held our elopement/ micro-wedding ceremony at the lodge. The lodge is perfect for an unplugged long weekend- it offers great food, amazing staff and services, and some of the best scenery that the Canadian Rockies have to offer.
Aptly named, the lodge is situated on a small peninsula on Emerald Lake, with the main lodge centred around separate lodgings accessible by bridge.
What’s in this post
What to expect
How to get here
What to eat
What to do
What to expect
Situated on a small peninsula on Emerald Lake, the main lodge is centred around smaller separate lodgings, with each room featuring a wood-burning fireplace - one of our favourite elements of our stay.
Once you’ve arrived and checked into the main lodge, which hosts dining outlets and a large lounge free for guest use, you’ll be given a small map to where your room is located on site. As the rooms are separate from the main building, you’ll head back outside and walk to your room via the small trails that connect all the buildings. Request a room close to the main lodge if you have any mobility concerns. The lodge offers a few different types of rooms; studio-style lodge rooms, lake view rooms that feature balconies, suite rooms that feature a separate bedroom and the Point Cabin, that features a wraparound balcony and a spacious sitting area. Read more about room prices and amenities here.
As the lodge is truly an ‘unplugged’ experience, you won’t have any reception or service in the entire area, and Wifi is only available up in the main lodge. Your rooms are truly about a tech-free experience. The lodge usually has an outdoor spa pool (we experienced this in our first year staying), that has since been closed for renovations, but when open is a really nice addition to the site.
Can I bring my dog?
The lodge offers a limited amount of pet-friendly rooms. Enquire with the lodge on availability before your stay, and expect a surcharge for the room.
How to get here
Emerald Lake Lodge is located just outside of the small township of Field, BC in Yoho National Park.
If you are visiting in winter, make sure you have the right kit for driving in Canadian winters, which are very different than what you may be used to. Pack provisions in your vehicle, be aware of wildlife, and drive with extra caution- especially if you’ll be driving in a remote space that lacks service.
By Plane
If you’re coming in from abroad or from another province or territory within Canada, the closest international airport is in Calgary, Alberta (YYC). From here, renting a car is the best option to get to/from Emerald Lake as the public transport services offered in this part of the Rockies don’t have a direct link to inland BC and Emerald Lake.
By Car
From the airport, the journey will take you 234.2km (just under 3 hrs) via the Trans Canada Highway. Following Banff National Park and Lake Louise, continue on the Trans Canada west to cross the provincial border from Alberta into BC. About 1km west of the small town of Field, you’ll notice a sign indicating the head of the Emerald Lake Access road, and turn in here.
The road is 8km long to the ‘Overnight Guest Parking’ on the left side of the road, and turn in here. There is an ample amount of free parking for guests staying at the lodge. From here, enter the cabin to book a shuttle to the lodge (see more below).
If you’re driving in from the west, be mindful of the Kicking Horse Canyon Project, that sees delays and closures on the Golden-Field stretch of road, with the alternate route adding a couple of hours to your journey. For updates on their traffic management see here.
Parks Pass
As Emerald Lake is situated within Yoho National Park, you will need to buy a Parks pass either in advance, when you pass through Banff National Park, or when you arrive at Emerald Lake (day passes can purchased at reception). You’ll have the option to choose between a Day Pass, which is the best option if you’re coming for a short holiday under two weeks, or a Discovery Pass, which is valid for an entire year and grants you access to over 80 Parks Canada destinations. See updated prices here. Once you have your pass, it must be displayed on the dash of your vehicle while in the National Park.
By Shuttle (from overnight carpark to the lodge)
Once you’ve parked in the overnight carpark, head into the large cabin area adjacent to the carpark where you’ll see a phone to call into reception. The lodge offers a complimentary shuttle service that will bring you to/from the main lodge with your luggage, and operates on demand. The shuttle will pull up to the main lodge where you’ll be able to check in.
Do I have to stay overnight to visit the area?
No, the lodge welcomes day visitors within the surrounding area, and both of their food outlets accept reservations from non-guests. If you are coming for a day trip, continue on driving past the overnight guest parking- there is a small carpark located on the land side of the Emerald Lake bridge that is free to use, but be mindful that in the busy season this will fill up quickly.
What to Eat
Emerald Lake Lodge hosts two dining outlets that are open all year round, the Mount Burgess Dining Room and the Kicking Horse Lounge. The Cilantro Cafe, which is the cabin that sits at the foot of the bridge over to the lodge, is typically closed in winter. Check out their updated menu and hours of operation here. We had our breakfasts daily at the Mount Burgess dining room (breakfast is not included within the room cost, you will need to pay for it separately), and had the majority of our dinners and lunches in either the Lounge or Dining Room and very much enjoyed all of our meals.
Be mindful that outside food and drink is not permitted within the lodge grounds or in your rooms (in line with National Park regulations for wildlife). Although it’s not a rule that’s actively enforced, none of the rooms have cooking facilities, and in this part of the world, leaving food/drink outdoors on your balcony (especially in a NP) can and will attract wildlife.
The Mount Burgess Dining Room offers an incredible array of local Canadian produce including elk and buffalo, and have a few fantastic vegetarian options as well.
Beyond the lodge
Although the Kicking Horse Lounge and Burgess Dining Room have enough options for you to be trying something new each day you stay, if you’re looking for something a bit different, head down the access road to Field, or organise a half day trip into nearby Lake Louise.
Field has a cafe, The Siding, and a restaurant, Truffle Pigs Bistro & Lounge, although you should double check their hours in the winter, as they typically have differing hours of operation. In Lake Louise, you have a few dining options within the Samson Mall, the outlying Lake Louise village, and within the iconic Chateau Lake Louise. Our personal favourites are Laggans Deli for something relaxed and unpretentious and the Post for something a bit more upsale.
What to do
To really soak up your surroundings, we definitely recommend one of the walks within the Emerald Lake area. Head to reception and ask for one of their winter activity trail maps, which go over all of the surroundings walks including the Emerald Lake Loop Trail (highly recommended by us) at 5.3km, the Hamilton Falls trail (1km), the Emerald River Trail (9km) and the Horse Trail (2km).
Be sure to enquire about avalanche risk, as the looped trail does pass through an avalanche zone. Know that freezing temperatures can be the norm this time of year in the Rockies, so be sure to wear appropriate clothing and footwear, and plan ahead with timing your walks as the days can be quite short this time of year. If you’re visiting at a time where there has been a lot of snowfall, considering renting a pair of snowshoes from Wilson Mountain Sports in Lake Louise on your way up.
Heading to the slopes
If you’re visiting in the winter and are an avid skiier or snowboarder, definitely consider heading up for a day on the slopes. The closest resorts are Lake Louise Ski Resort to the east, and Kicking Horse Resort to the west. For the latter, be mindful that there are major works on the Golden- Field road called the ‘Kicking Horse Canyon Project’, mentioned above, that can result in long delays and closures. If you are planning to visit Kicking Horse Resort, make sure well in advance that the road will be open as the alternative route adds a couple hours drive to your journey. Check out their traffic management for updates here.
If you are skiing at Lake Louise and have purchased a Plus Card in advance of your trip (see more about skiing lake louise here), know that your Plus Card offers a discount for booking into Emerald Lake Lodge. Check the blackout dates/ dates you intend to visit and use it to your advantage.
If you are looking for that true unplugged Canadian experience, Emerald Lake Lodge is the most idyllic place to stay in the winter. With it’s close proximity to Banff National Park and the Lake Louise and Kicking Horse Ski areas, it can be apart of a trip